Suspension Setup

1st things 1st...

This a general guide and may not cover every feature of your particular bike’s suspension. If you have any questions please email workshop@pearcecycles.co.uk
The bike featured is a 2010 Specialized FSR XC Pro.

Before you start, make sure the rear shock is not locked out and preferably set in the ‘open’ position as shown. This will vary on different shocks, so check your owners manual for details…

Likewise...

Make sure the fork is not locked out and preferably set in the ‘open’ position as shown. This will vary on different forks, so check your owners manual for details…

Sag indicators...

The first thing to set is Sag. This is the amount of travel used in a normal riding position. Most forks and air shocks come with an indicator (pictured), if not you can use a zip-tie.
Set both front and rear indicators against the wiper seal.

The 1st test...

Get someone to hold the bike in an upright position and sit on your bike in your normal riding position. Get kitted up in all your riding gear and backpack if you use one, this all adds weight and makes a big difference when adjusting the sag. Let the suspension settle, make sure your travel indicators are against the wiper seals when your weight has settled and dismount slowly without compressing the suspension.

Measure the fork sag...

Measure the distance from the sag indicator to the wiper seal. The correct amount of sag will depend on the shock/fork and bike you have, check your owners manual for details. For this particular bike we are looking to achieve 25% sag.
The fork pictured has 120mm of travel, so 25% sag will be 30mm.
The picture shows that we have 22.5mm sag, too little, so we need to decrease the air pressure to increase the sag. On a coil spring fork you can decrease the preload, but if this is not enough, you will need to fit a softer spring.

Adjust the fork sag...

So we now have to decrease the pressure in the forks, check your owners manual for correct procedure, attach the shock pump and release pressure with the bleed valve on your pump. Decrease pressure by 5psi and re-check the sag as before. Repeat until you have the correct sag (30mm on our fork). Note: it is normal to see a drop in pressure when refitting the shock pump, this is due to air filling the pump.

Measure the shock sag...

In this picture we are using a Specialized Sag Meter (this comes with your new Specialized bike). The idea is to align the sag indicator with the groove on the Sag Meter. Alternatively use a ruler as we have on the forks.
The sag here is too much so we need to increase the air pressure. If you have a coil shock, increase the preload, but no more than 4 turns from slack, or fit a harder spring.

Adjust the shock sag...

So we now have to increase the pressure in the rear shock, check your owners manual for correct procedure, attach the shock pump and increase the pressure by 5psi and re-check the sag as before. Repeat until you have the correct sag. Note: it is normal to see a drop in pressure when refitting the shock pump, this is due to air filling the pump.

Make sure...

Once you have adjusted both fork and shock sag, repeat the ‘1st test’. We do this because if, for example, your shock had too much sag and fork too little to start, adjusting one will have an affect on the other, due to weight distribution. So double check and make any final adjustments to the sag. The picture shows the sag indicator is aligned perfectly with the grove on the Sag Meter and we have measured the fork sag – 30mm. So were onto the next step…

Rebound damping...

Rebound damping – you need to adjust this to control the speed at which the fork/shock returns. Pictured is the rebound adjuster for our forks, with clear markings for which direction to turn it. Other forks will vary and obviously the adjuster on your shock will look different, check your owners manual for details. Increasing the rebound damping (the tortoise symbol, or +, or “slow”) will decrease the speed of the fork/shock as it extends. Adjust to get the fork/shock to return at a controlled speed, not so fast that it tops out harshly and not so slow that it doesn’t return before the next bump. You will find you need to adjust this on the first couple of rides until you to get it right.

Compression damping - rear shock...

Compression damping…
It will vary greatly depending on what shock you have, some are not adjustable, some have many adjustments. Our featured shock has 3 settings; locked, open and pro pedal.
Locked is as it sounds, the shock is locked out, ideal for road and smooth climbs, so your energy isn’t wasted by compressing the shock while pedaling.
Open is the minimum compression setting, allowing the shock to be very active, ideal for descents where maximum grip is required.
Pro pedal is a compression setting which affects slow movements. It will reduce the amount of movement of the shock when it is being moved slowly, e.g. rider movement when pedaling. This is a great all-round off-road setting as it makes the bike pedal efficiently and still absorbs the majority of bumps on the terrain.

Compression damping - forks...

Most forks now have a lockout, which is primarily used as an ‘on/off’ switch to lock the fork on road and smooth climbs. You can, on some models, use this as a compression adjuster, by turning the adjuster towards the ‘locked’ position. You may choose to do this to prevent the fork from bobbing when climbing out of the saddle, but still retaining some suspension for any obstacles.
Our featured fork has a ‘Gate’ function, also know as ‘threshold’ or ‘blow off’, this only affects the lock out function. When locked the ‘gate’ acts as a release valve, you can adjust it to set the force required to release the lockout. So if you increase the ‘gate’, it will take a larger bump to release the lockout, and decrease for a smaller bump to release the lockout.

Get out and ride!

When you go out and ride, make small adjustments, and only 1 at a time – you won’t know which adjustment made the difference if you adjust 3 things at once! – and try to keep a record of your settings, so you have something to fall back on if you get it all wrong! You want to get to the point where your bike is working for you and not against you. A balanced ride where the bike is not affecting your position is the result you are looking for…

Check your sag regularly, this can help identify any faults with your suspension e.g. air leaks, or damaged springs, pivot/bushing problems.

If you aren’t sure about anything to do with your suspension, please email workshop@pearcecycles.co.uk and we’ll do our best to help!